This is the largest raised coral atoll on Earth: remote, inhospitable, spared from human interference, home to 100,000 giant tortoises, and surrounded by pristine reefs.
This is Aldabra! It is truly one of the wonders of the world. And we on this Pristine Seas expedition to study and record its wildlife are thrilled to be here.
It might seem strange, but recently it was raining so hard that we couldn’t dive.
When there’s a strong current, instead of trying to surface in the same area we started, we “drift dive,” going along with the current while the dive boat sticks close to us, following the trail of our bubbles as they reach the surface. We can do this is almost any conditions.
On our first dive here at Aldabra though, the high winds and incredible downpour of rain reduced visibility to a just few yards meaning that the boat would be unable to keep track of us. So, resembling half-drowned sea birds, we just sat on the boat fully geared up staring into a monotone, grey world full of heaving seas, streaked with blowing foam.
At the first hint of improvement we went for it—descending quickly into a warm, colorful paradise.
The contrast with life on the surface was remarkable.
I was immediately joined by a hawksbill turtle who tapped his beak on my mask and then followed me for most of the dive. Pristine living coral covered nearly 100 percent of the bottom.
Black tip, nurse, and grey reef sharks made investigative close-up passes, and the reef pulsated with life from lobsters, octopuses, and countless beautiful reef fishes.
With life this good underwater I absolutely did not want to surface. Unsurprisingly this is the way we all feel about Aldabra—we love it and may never leave!
This expedition is led by National Geographic in collaboration with the Seychelles Island Foundation (SIF), the Island Conservation Society (ICS), the Islands Development Company (IDC) and the Waitt Foundation.
Thanks to Pristine Seas sponsors Blancpain and Davidoff Cool Water.